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Wixom MI.

Worning that all this rain has increased blight this year ! I wasnt paying attention to my eating tomatoes and they were covered in blight !!! So far it has not hit my compitition tomatoes, but i am spraying for it now.

7/5/2015 3:00:00 PM

Princeton Kentucky

I too anticipated blight with the rain. I simply mixed 2 tsp 100% neem with 2 drops of dish soap/gal of water and foliar spray in cooler time of the day. Seems to work over the years, so far so good. Also keeps mites & worms at bay. Make sure you have zero leaves touching the ground also. What are you spraying Chris if you don't mind.

7/5/2015 5:12:35 PM

Wixom MI.

Im glad you asked,because i have never sprayed for blight before.i never had a severe enough case to worry about, but now tring to grow compitition tomatoes i dont wont anything to ruin my season.I only have ortho garden and disease control and my uncle uses soapshild on his, but im looking for all the addvice i can get. Thanks for any help.

7/5/2015 7:30:44 PM

Allentown, PA

You can slow blight's affects but you cannot stop it.

Blight moves extremely rapidly and will kill a plant within days. The only thing you can do for blight is to immediately remove the affected plant and dispose of it far away from the healthy ones.

With this being said are you sure it's blight??

Right now due to the rain and humidity we have received here I have a decent amount of septoria leaf spot. Septoria leaf spot starts at the bottom of plants and causes brown spotting to occur along with yellowing of the leaves.

Take a look at this link; http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/fungal-spots/septoria-leaf-spot-of-tomato.aspx

7/5/2015 8:58:03 PM

Wixom MI.

Thanks julie,i think that you are right, but what is the differance ? I have cleaned off the lower leaves and sprayed it with ortho garden and disease control, is their anything else that i should do ?

7/5/2015 9:20:46 PM

valparaiso, in

Some of my tomato plants have leaf spot from the rain. For my eating tomatoes I cut off the bad leaves, and spray with Daconil. For my competition plants that have it I cut off the bad leaves, and spray with Eagle. I don't eat them so might as well use the good stuff on them.

7/6/2015 12:31:10 AM

Halifax, PA

I use Presidio at 1.5 milliliters per gallon.

7/6/2015 6:01:20 AM

Allentown, PA

Chris,

Your welcome, just continue to spray after removing the infected areas.

I have one plant that has a nice sized tomato that is being eaten alive by this. Nothing I can do about it but spray and pray.

7/6/2015 6:18:58 AM

Halifax, PA

For our eating tomatoes I use Presidio, Quadris and Daconil.
The giant tomatoes get whatever the pumpkins get for the week, which includes the products above plus some other stuff. We had blight start last year and this mix stopped it. It is expensive but you use such a small amount you could split it between several people and still have enough for years.

7/6/2015 6:51:37 AM

Northern Cambria, Pa.

Blight has been reported in western NY already. http://usablight.org/ I use Mancozeb and AgriFos and Daconil.

7/6/2015 8:55:50 AM

Allentown, PA

Chris,

The difference between leaf spot and blight and to break it down to it's simplest terms is severity level.

Blight will kill plants very rapidly whereas you can manage leaf spot for quite awhile prior to it destroying the plant.

7/6/2015 10:21:26 AM

Allentown, PA

Lcheckon,

Thank you for the link!

7/6/2015 11:37:20 AM

Wixom MI.

I must get leaf spot then, because rarely do i ever loose my plants to it, just loose the lower leaves as the plant grows up.

7/6/2015 4:15:44 PM

SW Ohio

There is early blight and late blight. Early blight is the same as any of the "spotty" diseases. Early blight starts at the bottom of the plant and moves up the plant. Removing infected vines and a good spray program will keep in check. Make sure when you plant out next year you put a barrier of mulch between the ground and the plant. Also, dont let the leacves touch the ground. Splashback is the easistest way to get early blight.
Late blight is a different animal. It is blown in by spores and can strike at any time. It takes a section of your plant out right now. One entire side of your plant can be black in 24 hours. It is nothing to mess around with and if you suspect you have late blight, remove the plants and dispose of in a garbage bag. Plants that are left in a compost pile or left in the garden will continue to spread the disease to everyone around you. Dont let the name late blight fool you. It can blow up from warmer climates at any time.

7/6/2015 5:43:56 PM

Buffalo, MN (Billsbigpumpkins@hotmail.com)

After a rain last week everyone of my outside plants has been effected. I have one plant with a nice tomato growing that appears to be the worst. Has anyone doubled the recommended dose of Daconil or any other fungicide to eliminate it or slow early blight down..

7/6/2015 5:43:58 PM

Allentown, PA

BillF

I have Daconil concentrate and I have been tripling the amount per gallon to spray on my competition plants.

The ones that have been affected have had the disease slow to a crawl and the others with no disease prior to the triple strength applications have had no infection.

My heirloom plants being grown for eating tomatoes are receiving a regular application of Daconil.

7/6/2015 5:52:13 PM

Buffalo, MN (Billsbigpumpkins@hotmail.com)

Thanks I'll try tripling and switch to copper fungicide if I don't see a slow down in the next few days. This plant had the biggest megabloom I have seen, but again I haven't seen many. It would be a shame to loose it.

7/6/2015 6:38:14 PM

Wixom MI.

Can i get daconil at a home depot or do i have to order it through a catalog ?

7/6/2015 7:16:04 PM

Buffalo, MN (Billsbigpumpkins@hotmail.com)

Wal-Mart carries it HD may.

7/6/2015 7:20:38 PM

Allentown, PA

I get Daconil in a concentrated form from Home Depot. It's approx 17.00 dollars.

7/6/2015 8:33:07 PM

Bloomington, IN USA

Some fungicides, like Daconil , Copper & Mancozeb, are contact fungicides & only slow the disease down. These should be sprayed before the disease appears.
Other fungicides, like Eagle, Agrifos, Pageant & Quadris are systemic & are actually considered curative.
Of course, even with these, resistance can develop so you want to rotate the different FRAC groups.
I like to use a contact fungicide along with a systemic with each spraying session except Copper; it is incompatible with many other things you might want to spray so it is usually sprayed by itself.

7/6/2015 11:35:16 PM

Allentown, PA

I have been spraying Daconil each week as a preventative for quite awhile.

Cost is the single biggest factor acting as a prohibitive concerning most FRAC groups.

If one could obtain a small volume of product of these that are mentioned that were in line with the needs of those growing one to fifty plants then I'm sure the retail cost would be reasonable.

As it stands however anything over half a gallon of concentrate used in foliar applications for myself as well as the majority of others within the confines of the tomato group that only grow tomatoes is cost prohibitive due to the amounts that these products are usually sold in.

7/7/2015 6:30:44 AM

Northern Cambria, Pa.

Agrifos is the exception to the resistance rule. There has been no documented resistance found so far as it has an entirely different mode of action than most fungicides. It is also relatively non-toxic and cheap. It is a true systemic and travels quickly throughout the entire plant.

7/7/2015 8:39:26 AM