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formerly RGG

I got my soil test back today and I am low on nitrogen. I was surprised at this since I added lots and lots of horse manure.So what is the best chemical fertilize to add nitrogen to my soil ? Or is that not the way to go ? Any recommendations ?

3/26/2012 10:16:59 PM

Bowdon, GA

blood meal

3/26/2012 10:50:50 PM

Madera, CA

I would advise to not add any chemical fertilizer. I added a strong N fertilizer I bought at Lowe's a couple years ago and my N levels went through the roof. N is easy to get, use some blood meal, and choose the blood meal that has what you want in it.

3/26/2012 11:23:13 PM

Muddy Waters

Cotton seed meal

3/27/2012 8:14:47 AM

Bethlehem CT

TD nitrogen on a soil test is fleeting to say the least. It is not stable in the soil. Even if it measured high in last falls soil test, you will need to assume that nitrogen will be needed again this year. Organic nitrogen (from manure and compost etc.) will not become available in the soil until the soil warms up a little. It is tied up at the moment and with the help of bacteria (which are not active in cool soil) Will be released slowly through out the summer. Fortunately nitrogen is an easy one to watch and it will be quite visible to you when you will need to add it. The leaves will just not have the healthy green that they should. Knowing when and how much to add will come with experience.
Most synthetic forms of nitrogen are available to the plant when used in cool soil conditions. This can really help a crop get going until the soil warms up. Melons are very, very sensitive to excess fertilizer salts especially when young. One year I almost lost my plants because I was pushing them a little too hard early on.

3/27/2012 8:30:38 AM

Bethlehem CT

I would be more concerned if my soil test had a high amount of Nitrate nitrogen. It would be a waste of nitrogen and also a source for pollution.

3/27/2012 8:37:49 AM

Jamul

Would fish fertilizer also be "tied up" in cool soils, big moon? Any other organic sources for pushing in the early season until the composted stuff kicks in?

3/27/2012 11:23:42 AM

Corbin, KY

calcium nitrate

3/27/2012 4:36:39 PM

Muddy Waters

Amen big moon

3/27/2012 5:42:29 PM

Muddy Waters

Mines low on nitrogen to. No big deal.Will kick start now with some urea to help break down organic matter.Will spread some cotton seed meal or blood meal at planting time to have a slow release in place & will spoon feed when needed.

3/27/2012 5:45:33 PM

Mt Vernon Ky

calcium nitrate

3/27/2012 7:28:49 PM

Bethlehem CT

Hi Russ I believe fish would need soil temps of at least 50 degrees to begin the release of Nitrogen. The warmer the soil the quicker the N will be released. Also... I have given a lot of thought to the question; Is there an organic source of Nitrogen for cooler soil conditions? I would guess pure urine, which has lots of urea in it. Urea is a form of nitrogen that will be available under cooler soil conditions.
Keep in mind too, that most of the crops we grow are warm weather crops, so they need very little nitrogen until the conditions are warmer. I have seen corn look sort of yellow and chlorotic with a week of cool, rainy conditions, Then after a week of plenty of heat and sun it greened right up. I have tried to push warm season crops (in cool soil) with synthetic nitrogen, but the plants still won't grow because it was just too cold.
I am by no means any sort of soil and fertilizer expert. In fact the true working relationship between plants and the soil is so immensely complex, I can't even begin to understand it. The best I can hope for is to learn how I can practically work with them.

3/27/2012 10:47:31 PM

formerly RGG

That was a great answer big moon. Thanks !

3/28/2012 7:59:33 AM

Muddy Waters

Define cool soil? Any temps under mid 50s will result in very little melon growth anyways.We need nites in the 60s to get good growth.70s is better ask Todd Dawson he will tell you,as he lives where some of the best temps are.I guess what I'm saying is nitrogen at cooler temps wont matter will it??

3/28/2012 8:26:21 AM

Western PA

Td, I am low on N as well. From the reading I have done, it is the easiest thing to fix. Don't sweat it. I agree with Mark and big moon.

Like Mark said ,the meals (cotton, alfalfa, etc) are more of a slow release , and the calcium nitrate is faster acting, but also disipates quicker.
Also be sure your putting down enough. I just learned a ton of valuable info from the tutorial from Western Labs.

Take a look, there is a mess of good info on here. http://24.119.119.119:8000/2-Atlantic%20Giant%20Pumpkins/Fertilizer%20Calculations%20for%20AGP.pdf



My soil test recomendations said in bold print, "NEVER APPLY NITROGEN ALL AT ONE TIME", apply it throughout the season 3-4 times. I am going to apply mine starting in May and then in 3 week increments from there.

3/28/2012 8:31:47 AM

Bethlehem CT

Yeah my current thinking is that the melons aren't really able to use the available nitrogen until the growing conditions are warm enough. We all have made the mistake of planting melons too early.. They just don't do anything until the weather is right for them.
Plants that grow really well in cool weather like grass or spinach. Should be able to use the available N (from synthetic forms) better in cool soil.
Handy from what I have read; bacteria that mineralize nitrogen really are not doing much until the soil temp reaches about 50 degrees. I would guess the process is still pretty slow until the soil reaches the 60-70 degree range.

3/28/2012 9:13:26 AM

Western PA

That link may not open. go to www.weternlaboratories.com and click on tutorial. You will type the word tutorial in when it asks for username. It should open and you will find a mess of great info.

3/28/2012 10:20:30 AM

Jamul

Thanks John, and to those who mentioned calcium nitrate. I am looking into that. I wonder how it will be with my alkaline soils.

John (big moon), everything you are saying makes sense when reflected of my 100% organic results.I finally tried plastic mulch on some cucurbits relatives, cucumbers. For places that warm up slowly, so far, the best remedy seems to be plastic mulch or similar efforts like heat cables. I wish it were simpler than that!

3/28/2012 12:10:34 PM

formerly RGG

I have decided to go with Growth Products Nitro-30. It comes highly recommended and is very biologically friendly.

3/28/2012 9:31:25 PM

Kentucky

I would be careful adding much N. Your soil test shows 32.1% OM with an estimated N release of 686 pounds N/Ac. This is just an estimate of the N that will be released from the OM during the season. That is an extremely high amount of N. I would proceed with caution.

3/28/2012 9:41:59 PM

formerly RGG

Thanks Hilltopper. But there is a recommendation in the analysis to add 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre during the growing season. I will use the Nitro-30 to supplement throughout the growing season as I deem needed to keep good growth rates going.

3/29/2012 8:51:37 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

Is there a timing issues as to when to add N. Sorta thinkin I have read in the past that too much N. at pollination time is not good? Peace, Wayne

3/29/2012 10:49:47 PM

formerly RGG

You are certainly right about that Wayne. Many years ago my dad had a row of tomatoes that we put chicken manure around. The plants grew great but it seemed like they were never going to set any tomatoes. Overall these tomatoes were a big disappointment.

3/30/2012 7:54:44 AM

Hamilton Nj

what is best ph for soil mine is at 7 is that too high??? thanks pizza

3/30/2012 8:12:10 AM

Western PA

Td,
did you see this site ? www.deltagreensupply.com,
they have essentials for a very good price.If you order befor April 1st, I think you get the current price and free shipping. I just found out this morning, sorry.

Pizzapete,
My ph was 7 also with my test I had done from western Labs in Idaho. Your soil is NOT too high.

Did you have a soil test done this spring yet ?

I personally spoke with the owner. He said, if your calcium levels are above the 2200 ppm range, not to add any lime to raise the ph. HE SAID LEAVE IT BE.If you put lime down last fall, it may still take a few more months to fully kick in, and it could raise a little more, which would be fine.
I have to add a few things myself , but all in all pretty balanced.

3/31/2012 9:57:35 AM

formerly RGG

Thanks Zappa. I have indeed seen their site at Delta Green before and it looks like a good one to me. But I just ordered from the Extreme Pumpkin Store. I ordered the Slow Release Nitrogen SRN 30-0-0 2.5 Gal, the Cal Mag Max 7-0-3 2.5 Gallon and the TKO 0-29-26 Phosphite 2.5 Gal. I am about broke now. lol My plants are looking nice though and I haven't even started any of these products yet.I have been using a little Peters 20-20-20, some humic acid, some fulvic acid a little kelp and one I just started a product called sil-guard from Growth Products. :o)

3/31/2012 12:39:18 PM

Hamilton Nj

i did not do soil test i tilled garden after adding some dryed chicken manure 2 weeks ago so i figured i cant do a soil test after adding manure ,ill probably pay for not doing it ,i tested my ph with a small tester u stick in the ground!! pizza

3/31/2012 1:08:20 PM

Western PA

Pizza, I don't it is too late to have it tested. Even with the added manure. Just be sure to follow the directions on how to get your sample.
After all the record rain we had last spring and fall , it would be good to do. My ph was way low when I tested last fall, (6.0).That is why two of my pumpkins stopped growing at 400-500 pounds.
I added some dolomitic lime last fall and a few inches of manure, and that seemed to bring it up to 7.0.

4/1/2012 8:35:42 AM

Madera, CA

For the record my comment on bloodmeal was wrong, maybe I should read the label a little better before I post. I was comparing it to bonemeal.

4/2/2012 5:42:12 PM