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Austria

Another question on a subject I`m not quite sure about.

Let`s say, one has several sets on a plant and does not count on further pollination, will it help to cut the main vine, after the last set to keep the energy in the plant? Some say, never cut that main vine, others probably did or had to.

I`ve experienced the following. I had two secondaries with females on them. They were pollinated the same day. What I did is, i cut one of them right behind the female and let the other one grow. The fruit on the secondary I cut, is quite bigger than the other. This should be "working" with the main vine too to accelerate the growth of the pumpkins on the main .. just a theory.

8/1/2005 4:45:10 AM

Knopp, Germany

Heino, here are my thoughts on your question.

If you have a pumpkin set within 10-15 feet of the stump, then let the main grow out some more to produce more leaves to feed the pumpkin.

If your pumpkin is set 20-25 feet out then you probably already have a big enough plant to feed the pumpkin. However, if your first couple of secondaries are old and beaten up from the weather, then you may want to let the main grow some more to produce some younger, healthy leaves.

Terminating all vine growth in theory forces the plant to feed the pumpkin (in this case the pumpkin is also refered to as a "sink"). If you have more then one pumpkin, or a main vine that you allow to continue to grow, then the plant is feeding more then one sink, so in theory your main pumpkin is not taking full advantage of the plants energy.

With that being said, I have seen a video with Geneva Emmons (past world record holder), and she says that she allows the main vine to continue to grow, she stated that she felt it helps the plant stay healthier. Other record holders terminate everything when the plant has reached the size they desire.

Do a search on the site using the word "sink". I believe you will find some very interesting threads that discuss this subject.

owen

8/2/2005 3:29:01 AM

Knopp, Germany

Here are 4 links that do a great job of discussing in more detail:

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/MsgBoard/ViewThread.asp?b=3&p=56381
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/MsgBoard/ViewThread.asp?b=3&p=57179
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/MsgBoard/ViewThread.asp?b=3&p=60915
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/MsgBoard/ViewThread.asp?b=3&p=61746

8/2/2005 3:35:42 AM

Austria

Thanks a lot Owen, I will get through these infos right away. It might help me when hard decisions are to be made within the next days.

8/2/2005 4:57:03 AM

Deer Park, WI

I think Owen's advice is right on target. I too am curious as to whether pruning main vine tips makes a signficant difference in fruit size.

Logically, it seems reasonable that terminating the vine would create less competition with the fruit for nutrients, and in theory the nutrients that would feed a growing vine tip would go into the fruit. No one knows for sure.

Experience has shown me that once the fruit reaches basketball size, secondary and main vine growth after the fruit signficantly slows down. Obviously the plant knows how to shift priorities from salad growth to fruit growth. Terminating the vine tips may help the plant along.

However, sink/source theory states that nutrients flow from the source to the closest sink. As such, you'd like to have as many sources as possible next to the pumpkin, this being secondary vines on either side of the fruit.

Perhaps I've only served to confuse you more, but in the end, i do prefer to terminate my main vines, simply because they dont have the room to keep on keepin on.

8/2/2005 8:48:07 AM

Austria

Owen and Joe

This source/sink theory has a certain fascination, I must admit. I can absolutely follow these ideas and since I have three plants I might possibly try different approaches. I really think I have way too many sinks on my 628 (tons of male flowers, five pumpkins growing or let`s say 4, one is aborting now, main and several 2ndary vines still rolling). I`ll try to change things here in the next days. I think there could be some sense in not terminating the sinks too early for they might help to max out the plants potential and then being removed having helped to develop a big strong plant.

8/2/2005 9:04:37 AM

Knopp, Germany

Heino, pruning of the plant, and the pattern used to grow is a very interesting subject. I believe that one of the most important areas of interest, in getting a good start to the season, is learning when to place a seedling outdoors, so that it can reach a stage of growth, that will support a pumpkin during the best time for growing. And I believe that is different for every area around the world.

I know that were I live, if I want to have a decent size plant, and set a pumpkin about 15 feet out by 7 July, I need to have my seedling outside no later then 1 May. That is about 3 weeks before the last frost date here, so I must plan for frost protection during that time frame, and try to figure out a way to keep the plant warm, even during cold nights.

You gotta love our hobby, always somethig to work on and make improvements.

8/2/2005 9:38:58 AM

Knopp, Germany

Continued......

If all does go as planned (it did not this year), and I pollinate by 7 July, then I can still grow a few more feet of main vine with new leaf growth to support the nearest source/sink theory as Joe discussed. By the end of July all vine growth is then terminated and for the months of August and September all energy is going towards the one and only sink on the plant, my future 1000 Olsen 05...LOL

8/2/2005 9:46:48 AM

Austria

Thanks Owen,

I like the idea of getting the seedlings out as early as possible, also aware that the first three weeks may surely be risky. Therefor I have a few back-up plants in my mind which will be kept inside and will replace a plant which would not survive.

Concerning pruning I have lots of new infos now, which will me guide me the next days/evenings if time for patch work.

8/2/2005 10:19:33 AM

Loitsche/Sachsen-Anhalt/Germany

Heino, Owen,
I can confirm that according to the fruit approach the growth of the main vine is slowed down strongly.
The question when the growth of the shoot should be ended depends which area could already cover the plant. Next to the scarfing area is also the root mass and the floor nutrients developed with that of importance. I think after my first experiences that it is important to have a big plant which can collect strength around the solstice on the long days early. I cannot say yet which area is necessary for a really big fruit. For this I lack experiences. But 35-50 m ² are for certain good. By for a long time shall primary drive and short secondary drive or another average be reached, I would like to know whether that. To this becomes I to start a test next year.
I would be pleased if we could lead a discussion to it in Ludwigsburg. I come on October 2nd.

8/12/2005 3:23:24 PM