Soil Preparation and Analysis
|
Subject: Soil test results, any help would be appreciated.
|
|
From
|
Location
|
Message
|
Date Posted
|
Richard |
Minnesota
|
Organic matter 4% ph 7.6 Olsen phosphorus ppm P 31 Bray 1 Phosphorus ppm P 38 Potassium ppm P 38 Potassium ppm K 239
This was the first time I had a soil test done. Comparing to the ones I have seen posted here on Bp I did not have the same test done, I was not given much detail at all, 4 different readings, this is the garden soil test from the university of Mn, I must of had the wrong one done or forgot to have something done. Anyway any advice would be helpfull, do I need gypsum, lime, any help would be appreciated. Thank You Richard I will be posting a copy of it in my Diary, thank you
|
4/19/2009 10:59:42 PM
|
christrules |
Midwest
|
Raise the OM... need compost, humic acid, mollases - No lime since your pH is high and your OM is medium to low. There's no Ca number. I'm guessing - you may need Ca - it depends on your soil type. Choosing the Ca options are up to you like; Gypsum, Calcium Nitrate, Calcium Sulfate? Looks like you could raise the Potassium up slightly. (Sulfate of Potash 0-0-50)
|
4/19/2009 11:56:10 PM
|
Richard |
Minnesota
|
Thanks Christ, I have another question, what would make the soil crack, it seems after a good rain, when the soil drys it pulls apart, leaving big cracks?
|
4/20/2009 12:10:38 AM
|
christrules |
Midwest
|
heavy clay soil, not enough Ca.
|
4/20/2009 1:05:14 AM
|
Alex B |
Ham Lake, Minnesota
|
Richard I had that same test done last year. I felt you don't get much bang for your buck. When I had that test done I opted to pay extra for the Ca/Mg test to be done. It would cost over $50 to get all the tests completed they offer on that report and you would still be missing your base saturations and cation exchange.
|
4/20/2009 2:07:49 AM
|
Alex B |
Ham Lake, Minnesota
|
http://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/scans/2004LG.pdf
|
4/20/2009 2:08:30 AM
|
big pumpkin dreamer |
Gold Hill, Oregon
|
clay soil. put down 3 layers of newspaper and cover with compost or mulch. compost and mulch will help keep moisture in. newspaper will keep weeds down and decompose. you don't want a lot of wood. wood will suck the nitrogen out of your soil.
|
4/20/2009 3:28:19 AM
|
Ron Rahe (uncron1@hotmail.com) |
Cincinnati,OH
|
I would add peat moss (not the ph adjusted stuff) to lower the ph and provide OM All the compost and manure you can find Gypsum for calcium Greensand for potassium Alfalfa pellets for nitrogen
|
4/20/2009 6:38:04 PM
|
Richard |
Minnesota
|
Thanks, I for sure will be adding gypsum.
|
4/20/2009 7:24:08 PM
|
Matt |
Newmarket, NH USA
|
Got to lower your ph to 7.0 or less remember a little goes a long way one year I added 3 bags of peat moss not knowing it would drop my ph and I screwed my whole patch up. I would ask a soil pecialist the exact amount needed never guess on this stuff trust me.
|
4/23/2009 8:24:17 AM
|
Orangeneck (Team HAMMER) |
Eastern Pennsylvania
|
try A&L laboratories for your soil test. I use A&L Eastern laboratories but you could use A&L Western laboratories as well. You will get full graphical analysis of all macro and micro nutrients along with base saturation % etc for about $15.00
|
4/23/2009 1:30:29 PM
|
Dennis F |
Falls City, NE
|
You can try www.midwestlabs.com they are cheap they do the full range of tests and they understand AG's figure that one out. LOL
|
4/23/2009 7:55:09 PM
|
Richard |
Minnesota
|
Thanks
|
4/23/2009 8:19:48 PM
|
Richard |
Minnesota
|
Matt, how did it screw up your patch.
|
4/23/2009 8:23:30 PM
|
Total Posts: 14 |
Current Server Time: 11/24/2024 2:41:10 PM |