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Ohio

Organic matter 11.8
Phosphorus 171 ppm
Potassium 315 ppm
Magnesium 395 ppm
Calcium 1627 ppm
Cation Exchange 12.1
Ph 6.6
Buffer Ph 7
K Saturation 5.6%
Mg Saturation 23.9%
Ca Saturation 50.4%

This is patch one and the recommendation from them nitrogen 130 lbs/a...phosphorus 10 lbs/a..,potassium 20 lbs/a and sidedress nitrogen 25% to 33% when vines begin to grow.

4/9/2006 2:18:34 AM

Ohio

This is patch two.
Organic matter 1.8
Phosphorus 47 ppm
Potassium 105 ppm
Magnesium 284 ppm
Calcium 800 ppm
Cation Exchange 8.9
Ph 6.2
Buffer Ph 6.7
K Saturation 2.5%
Mg Saturation 23.4%
Ca Saturation 33.7%

This is patch one and the recommendation from them nitrogen 130 lbs/a...phosphorus 121 lbs/a..,potassium 177 lbs/a and sidedress nitrogen 25% to 33% when vines begin to grow.

I have read a lot of soil test on here and everyone on here knows way more than me what would you do or add? One other thing why is the optimal ranges for each patch different ? Is it because of the different values? Thanks for you time!

4/9/2006 2:37:14 AM

SF Bay Area, California

Some of these numbers do not make sense to me. I guess the different soil test labs do things differently so you have to be careful when analyzing the results. Here's what bothers me - the Cation Saturation percentages should add up to close to 100% They don't list the fourth Cation, sodium, but it should be less than a percent or two. So the first soil test adds up to 80% and the second only about 60% Where the hell is the rest of the Cation's???

One thing is for sure, Calcium is low reletive to Mg and they don't give any guidance to add calcium - go figure. I would definately lime both patches with limestone, (not Dolomite) to add calcium. Even though the ph is under 7, I would also add a little gypsum (maybe 5 pounds/100 square feet) to help leach the Mg down a little and improve the ca/mg balance.

Also the second patch has virtually no OM. You will do more to improve the soil by adding a 4 inch layer of compost or well-aged manure than all the amendments they recommend. Good luck

4/9/2006 11:29:58 AM

Ohio

This was Spectrum Analytic

4/9/2006 2:18:31 PM

Puyallup, WA

Tremor could probably write an epistle on these two reports. One thing is clear and that is patch #2 is in a "world of hurt"! I'd estimate that it will take a good two years of manure, compost and lime before optimum pumpkin soil can be had.
I'd go back in the archives of this topic and begin reading.

4/11/2006 11:23:57 PM

Ohio

This was a shock to me also reason I say this is patch two has been the best garden from corn to pumpkins. We have always gave away lots of vegetables could the test be bad in some way? I was sure the Organic matter would be low but not that low. Was going to put kelp meal on would it help the patches? Thanks again for the help!

4/12/2006 12:38:02 AM

Puyallup, WA

Well, you ask, "Could the soil test be in error?" I say, "Yes, it could." I have had results that I have questioned their accuracy. I remember reading about a magazine that sent samples of the same soil to 20+ soil labs and not a one of them could agree on the result! All of them had different results....some varied greatly.

4/13/2006 1:41:45 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

Patch #1...200 lbs/M Gypsum tilled.

Patch #2 looks...interesting.

Can you buy manufactured soil in your area? How about well aged manure?

Time today doesn't permit a full dissertation of what we'd like to do here. Nor would you have time to build (much) on what you have in time for the 2006 planting season.

You could just follow the labs recommendations for this year & then start building a good organic soil in the fall.

What are your personal goals for patch #2 for this year? Next year?

4/13/2006 10:30:44 AM

Ohio

This year over 100 next 500 I think this is what you mean. I think a new soil test also.I have had big max at 95lbs.

4/14/2006 12:17:43 AM