From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Upa Creek, Mo

When is the ideal age to start moving the fruit into a 90 degree angle with the vine? Any favorite methods too? Last year I lost my first set fruit at 11 DAP by snapping the stem in 2. Thanks

6/27/2011 9:25:23 PM

South Bloomfield, Ohio

Try moving the vine instead Luke. Slow and easy...just a little each day during the warm periods.

6/27/2011 9:49:27 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Luke, Joe sorta nailed it...move vine & pkn if needed during warm part of the day...cold means brittle!!! Good Luck!! Luke!!! Peace, Wayne

6/28/2011 3:08:44 AM

Nottingham, UK

As a new grower I appreciate the brittleness. In getting my vine laying down and burried as it grows I have accidentally snapped off a few feelers (not sure what they are called, the bits that scramlbe to grip on and hold the plant down) and they broke without warning.

Has served as a warning for extra care with the vine.

6/28/2011 6:07:33 AM

Rhode Island

if you bank soil on one side of the pumpkin then as it grows it forces itself to move away from the bank.

moving the main works well.sometimes

a paint stick with a piece of sponge against the fruit works as well. move a little each day.

once the fruit gets to football size you can just nudge it a little each day as well.

all above done when the vines are warm of course

6/28/2011 6:39:59 AM

Upa Creek, Mo

Thanks for the input everybody. Lots to consider right now with 3 fruit I have on one plant. Their vine positioning, # lobes, symetrical vs deformed, and where on the main or 2ndary. Each has its plusses and minuses and the keeper might need the most moving.

Dandy, you're talking about the tendrils. I cut mine off sometimes since they wrap up around small leaves.

6/28/2011 8:43:56 AM

Mill Bay, British Columbia

Hey Luke, part of the reason why when you have multiple fruit set, that you choose the one with best vine postition.

But like pap and Joe said, a combination of moving the vine away and adjusting the pumpkin (slightly each day) is the way to go.

I also use foam wedges (cut like door stops) to hold the little pumpkin in place once you've moved it so it does not slide back where it was.

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=110653

Slow and steady for sure.....!!

6/28/2011 11:09:22 AM

Linden, Mi.,

I cut all tendrils off as they want to move the vine around

6/28/2011 11:32:52 AM

Upa Creek, Mo

What about lobes? My first 5 lober is 12 feet out on the first secondary. I could terminate that secondary at the fruit for great positioning. The other 2 are on the main and 4 lobes. The one with good position was mildly deformed and the symmetrical 4 lober on the main has terrible positioning. That 5 lober on the first secondary sounds kind of tempting.

6/28/2011 11:50:29 AM

Germany

Hi Luke, 1725 Sweet, 1725 Harp, 1689 Jutras and many other big ones arose from four-lobes. Hence, I wouldn´t pay too much for getting a five-lobe grow. Just watch them develop, and if you notice that those on the main develop one or more advantages (good position, thick stem, rapid growth) just forget about the five-lobe. As long as space is permitting, let all of them grow up to at least 30-40 pounds and keep diary of their daily growth (don´t look how much they grow on a particular day, because their growth rate will depend on age, look how long it will take them to go from 20 pounds to 40), this might give a first impression of their further potential. ...and then, once you decide which one to keep, you´ll have some veggies for soup. Ever tried some yummy food made from little AGs?, can use them like zucchini.

6/28/2011 5:28:48 PM