Home What's New Message Board
BigPumpkins.com
Select Destination Site Search

Message Board

 
New Growers Forum

Subject:  DID YOU KNOW PART # 2

New Growers Forum      Return to Board List

From

Location

Message

Date Posted

pap

Rhode Island

PRE-SOAKING FOR A FEW HOURS AND PRE-GERMINATING IN A CONSTANT WARM AREA (80 TO 90 DEGREES)WITH SEED WRAPPED IN A MOIST PAPER TOWEL THEN WRAPPED IN PLASTIC HELPS GREATLY. ESPECIALLY WHEN DEALING WITH OLDER SEEDS. SOMETHING WE ARE DOING MORE OF AS OF LATE.IT ALSO ELIMINATES THE "IS IT GONNA GERMINATE FACTOR"

IF YOU DONT SPRAY FOR DISEASE ESPECIALLY AFTER RAIN AND HUMIDITY YOUR ROLLING THE DICE

GETTING A SOIL TEST IN SPRING AND AGAIN LATE JULY EARLY AUGUST CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SUCCESS AND FAILURE

PLANTS EAT UP LARGE AMPOUNTS OF POTTASIUM ESPECIALLY ONCE THE FRUIT IS GROWINGH AT ITS MAXIMUM. 3 TO 5 POUNDS OF POTASH PER PLANT EVERY TEN DAYS FROM AUGUST OUT IS RECCOMMENDED

EXCESS NITROGEN WILL CAUSE PLANT TIPS TO BECOME BRITTLE AND BREAK EASILY. THE TIPS POINT TO THE HEAVENS -ETC, IF THIS HAPPENS LAY OFF THE NITROGEN FOR A WEEK OR SO AND THE TIPS WILL LAY DOWN PROPERLY.


2/11/2009 8:28:47 AM

Frank 4

Coventry R.I.

Great stuff Pap,,,,, Thanks

2/11/2009 12:18:16 PM

big pumpkin dreamer

Gold Hill, Oregon

sorry pap. you lost me on the spray for disease after rain. what do you spray and what diseases happen after rain? i know pap knows his pumpkins but i'm still in the seedling stage.

thank you pap

2/12/2009 5:29:50 AM

pap

Rhode Island

a very wise man and personal friend of ron and i once coined the phrase "WHEN IT RAINS IT SPORES"
any broad spectrum fungicide will work. daconil is widly available and used a lot.there are many others that could also be used whne switching up sprays.

for this same reason you should spray your pumpkin once a week from say 100 pounds on out with a spray of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water.especially in the area that gets splattered when it rains.

tom privitera has im sure several contact fungicides and also some sestemic fungicides available on his wed site.

2/12/2009 7:56:26 AM

Mr D

Burton, Ohio

Pap, great information. What's the name of Tom's website?

2/12/2009 9:15:19 AM

Bohica (Tom)

Www.extremepumpkinstore.com

Thanks PAP, the web site is The Extreme Pumpkin Store
www.extremepumpkinstore.com

2/12/2009 9:40:37 AM

Captain Cold Weather

Boulder County Colorado USA planet Earth

MR. D check it out its awesome.

2/12/2009 10:35:53 AM

FDRthegreat2

Murfreesboro, TN, USA

Pap, how about the stem? Is there anything you do to help prevent stem rot?

My bigest problem last year were squash bugs. Do you have problems with them? If so how do you deal with them? I would collect them and place them in a sandwhich bag then place them in the sun and watch them Die! I reallize there isn't a cure all solution, I figure I will try anything and ask the pros.

2/12/2009 5:55:11 PM

pap

Rhode Island

you need a contact and a sestemic insecticide (switch up every other time) check toms site he may have product you can use.
squash bugs,cuke beetles, mites, can all put your plant in a bad way. protection early on will eliminate these problems

sometimes we put a dusting of sulfer on the stems ,especially if they sap to much or start to get soft spots
( soft spots by the way need to be trimmed off and once a fungicide is applied? run a fan on it for several days until it dries)

we have also been known to use a hair drier on low speed to dry off these spots)

2/12/2009 6:36:39 PM

OkieGal

Boise City, Oklahoma, USA

IF you are spraying for SVB's that spray will take care of most of your squash bugs during SVB spray season. Else brew your own Garlic Barrier... take three whole bulbs of garlic, peel and run through blender or food processor with enough water to make a good puree. Dump in gallon jug, fill with water and let brew for at least three days. Strain, dilute 1:10 and spray in evening.... always made me want to make spaghetti afterwards :)

2/12/2009 6:39:44 PM

amigatec

Oklahoma State Record Holder

I used Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub on mine to combat the SVB's. Works on all boring insects. It seemed to work just fine. Mix it up and pour around the base of the plant.

2/12/2009 7:30:30 PM

Richard

Minnesota

Pap, Question? potash/pottasium, what kind do you use? can you foliar spray with it, is any kind good, can it have direct contact with the plant? thanks

2/12/2009 10:38:41 PM

pap

Rhode Island

i usuallt buy an organic 0-0-40 or 0-0-50 granular potash . it can be purchases in small bags at most garden centers.i spred it on the ground but there are water soluable brands as well.
im sure at places like agway you may be able to buy larger quantities.
caution --- dont go nuts with it. its a replacement for what the plant/pumpkin has taken out of the soil.
to much can also cause early termimation of pumpkin growth.

2/13/2009 7:52:03 AM

OkieGal

Boise City, Oklahoma, USA

Tom sells it too, I got some 0-0-50 from him last year but chickened on using it.

2/13/2009 8:53:50 AM

FDRthegreat2

Murfreesboro, TN, USA

Pap, how do you determine what is too much Potash/pottasium? Other than early termination, is there a rule of thumb?

2/13/2009 9:23:07 AM

pap

Rhode Island

F D R (now those are great initials )
if your not adjusting the amount of pottasium your spreading against a early august soil test? a good rule of thumb would be to spred on a 500 square ft plant 2 to 3 pounds every ten days ---- three times in the month of august starting around the seventh, then a couple times again every ten days carrying thru mid september.(adjusr per plant quantity up or down depending on your plants square footage)
if you get a soil test which is what we do ? and if your telling them your growing giant pumpkins ? the lab will most times tell you the amount to add.
if they dont ask and someone like ron or i will advise you.
pap

2/14/2009 12:08:54 AM

FDRthegreat2

Murfreesboro, TN, USA

Thanks Pap Just what I needed to know. I will definately look you up to help understand the soil amendmants after an analysis. I really want to grow a big one this year and do it by making as few mistakes as possible. The more I learn the better results I will have next year and to know what I can look for throughout the entire lifecycle of my plant.

True story about my initials, when I was born, before the use of ultrasounds to determine the sex of the baby. The doctor told my mother that I was going to be a girl. Of course my parents went with this information and picked out the clothes, name, and decorated the room. Well, to their surprise I came along and my mother said he will have the initials FDR! They returned the clothes and repainted the room!

2/14/2009 9:10:03 AM

Kathyt

maine USA

Paps, you in the past have mentioned getting tissue tests. I had one last summer on one of my plants and I was very surprised that my Calcium was low. My soil tests indicate that mycalcium is quite high and I foliar feed with a calcium product, Last year we had a lot of rain in Maine. Was this likely the cause? Any suggestions? thanks Kathy
By the way, I really appreciate it when you do these threads. A lot of grat information. thanks again.

2/15/2009 10:47:08 AM

pap

Rhode Island

kathy
anytime you have a season with excessive amounts of rain things like calcium and potash will leach faster from the soil.
last year was quite wet for us here in ri. we to had a problem when potassium leached out faster than normal from the soil

2/16/2009 8:11:04 AM

Total Posts: 19 Current Server Time: 11/27/2024 9:51:00 PM
 
New Growers Forum      Return to Board List
  Note: Sign In is required to reply or post messages.
 
Top of Page

Questions or comments? Send mail to Ken AT bigpumpkins.com.
Copyright © 1999-2024 BigPumpkins.com. All rights reserved.